The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage walk, Japan

Chapter 222,791 wordsCompleted

The narrator flies into Osaka en route to Europe, then takes a train and bus to a farm about 20 km from the Kumano Kodo trailhead. At the farm gate she notices a hand‑drawn map with chipmunk icons that shows a 5‑km citrus‑orchard detour to the official trail start, saving a bus ride. The next morning she packs rice balls, picks an orange, and sets off directly from the farm.

All day she sees no other hikers; a large snake visits her twice while she meditates on shrine steps at lunch, which she later learns on social media symbolizes transformation. At about 4 pm she reaches the main Kumano Kodo path, studies the trail map in an all‑weather shelter, and begins a three‑day ascent of moss‑covered stone steps through birch and cypress forest. The steps are described as relentless, with a 12th‑century poet’s lament engraved on a plaque at the top.

She stays each night in small villages, sleeping on tatami in the spare rooms of families who do not speak English, drinking miso soup, and struggling with unknown slipper etiquette. The region feels “still stirring into the modern age,” with octogenarian farmers working by hand and minimal modern infrastructure.

On the fourth day she meets Kitsumi, a Yamabushi monk, on the main street of his mountain town. He is dressed in traditional white stockings, webbed slippers, a torso wrapped in colourful pompoms denoting the virtues a monk must master, and carries a conch. The narrator, in trail shoes and green shorts, asks Kitsumi about forest bathing (shinrin‑yoku). Kitsumi claims he has never heard of it, despite journalists and active‑wear brands quoting him, highlighting the gap between his lived tradition and its commercial branding.

Kitsumi and the narrator climb a pine‑needle‑cushioned ridge together. Kitsumi explains that the Kumano Kodo is a sacred Shugendo pilgrimage route, where Shugendo (a syncretic practice of Shinto and Buddhism) trains followers in “endurance” to gain supernatural spiritual power. Historically, pilgrims walked the route when facing death, seeking rebirth either after dying on the path or by surviving to its end. Kitsumi says, “You suffer to live… you practice endurance to know life.”

During the climb the narrator’s thyroid issues cause weakness and dizziness, but she forces herself forward, visualising energy rising from the earth through her feet and using a breathing rhythm that becomes trance‑like. Kitsumi offers practical hiking advice: keep your gaze about two metres ahead on steep grades to reduce perceived steepness, and stresses the importance of glute endurance. He adds that his own practice of endurance has made him a kinder person, emphasizing that Shugendo endurance is meant for “radical service,” not just personal enlightenment.

At the summit Kitsumi blows his conch into the valley, they meditate briefly, then descend to share tea. The narrator continues the hike alone, fielding questions from tourists about whether she is on a pilgrimage; she notes that many collect shrine stamps, but she treats every hike as a personal pilgrimage. She hikes two more days, reaching a final village with a natural onsen in a river. In the late afternoon she sits in a hot river patch, rests her head on a rock, and watches a hawk circle as the moon rises. The chapter ends with her contemplation of endurance, service, and the transformative power of the Kumano Kodo experience.