Wadi Rum hike, Jordan

Chapter 275,769 wordsCompleted

The narrator recounts a recent trek through the massive sandstone‑and‑granite valley of Wadi Rum, Jordan. After a Facebook post by a climber friend leads her to a local contact, she is introduced to Oadh, a nine‑child Bedouin whose family has lived in the valley for generations. Together with her longtime travel companion Kersti, they embark on a five‑day desert journey. Each morning they wrap scarves around their heads and follow Oadh’s thin shepherd’s stick along routes only he seems to know, shuffling through the hot red sand in a snowshoe‑like gait to conserve energy. Oadh sets vague daily goals, usually centered on finding patches of shade, and the pair move down the panoramic valley and back up the opposite side. Along the way they encounter camels, stop at Oadh’s family’s nomadic lean‑tos where goats and children play, and drink tea “so sweet you could stand a spoon in it” while sitting on woven carpets, swatting flies. Lunches are taken in shade, after which Oadh prays toward Mecca and returns singing; the group then siestas before resuming the trek. Evenings are spent camping under stars, cooking chicken, tomatoes and potatoes over a fire, and sharing quiet moments. Oadh never complains, never asks about their home lives, and encourages them to dress comfortably, saying, “You are not our culture, just enjoy.” He often declares his happiness aloud, explaining that it comes from “spending time in the desert with people.” The narrator reflects that nomadic life is not restless searching but an “arrived belonging,” noting how the desert’s heat strips away artifice, forcing a shedding of make‑up, clothing, excuses, and ego. She cites Thoreau’s 1862 description of desert walking and reads passages from James Hollis’s Living an Examined Life during siestas. Hollis’s central question—“Does this choice enlarge or diminish?”—profoundly impacts her decision‑making. She applies it to career, social invitations, and her own book project, concluding that most people avoid the enlarging, wild option. This wilderness experience reinforces her belief that modern comfort and technology foster “moral loneliness,” while the desert’s stillness reveals a path toward genuine connection and purposeful action.