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The narrator begins by recalling a “table” built from words spoken by Ma, then shifts to a vivid memory of a fire in Lan’s Hartford apartment where the family slept on a hardwood floor swaddled in Salvation Army blankets. A Salvation Army worker hands the narrator’s father coupons for fried chicken (“Old‑Man Chicken”), and the narrator tears into the crispy meat while pondering saints and pain. The scene moves to central Virginia on the first of August, where the narrator visits Grandpa Paul for a college‑graduation celebration. In Paul’s lush garden, tomato vines, kale, wheatgrass, magnolias, asters, poppies, marigolds, and baby’s‑breath bloom under dusk; Paul, arthritic and wearing fogged glasses, prepares pesto and tosses bow‑tie pasta in a moss‑green sauce, watching the kitchen window turn into a blank screen. The narrator reflects on “building a table” with language.
Next, the narrator remembers his father’s wages from scaling fish at a Chinese market on Cortland, the sound of copper coins spilling onto the floor, and the imagined richness they represented. A memory of a grocery trip follows, noting that the father had beaten Ma only twice, and recalling Wonder Bread, mayo (mistaken for butter), and the absurdity of American food compared to Saigon mansions.
The narrative then jumps to a Thanksgiving at Junior’s house, where Lan brings fried eggrolls to a table laden with mashed potatoes, turkey, cornbread, chitlins, greens, sweet‑potato pie, and eggs. Junior’s mother spins a black plastic record, filling the room with a wailing woman’s song that echoes a Vietnamese lullaby. Junior’s father asks the narrator about Etta James, and the narrator feels a surge of happiness.
A night in Saigon after Lan’s death is described in detail: the narrator steps onto a hotel balcony, follows nocturnal street music, and witnesses a drag‑performer funeral ritual. Drag queens in sequined outfits conduct a “delaying sadness” ceremony for a dead body draped in a white sheet; the community quickly pools money to hire them. The corpse’s jade earring is noted as the drag performers weep. The narrator records the father’s prison letter, its censored blanks, and visualizes the table as a shrouded body.
Later, the narrator recalls school‑farm memories on the Connecticut tobacco farm: Mr Zappadia instructs him to “color in what you saw,” he paints a sad cow with rainbow crayons, Zappadia crushes the cow, and the narrator is left staring at a merciless blue sky. Ants march across the garden dirt, prefiguring winter‑bound monarchs that will not migrate.
The chapter ends with the narrator and Ma in the Virginia garden as night falls; Paul clips mint leaves for garnish, a squirrel darts away, and Ma calls the narrator “Little Dog,” urging him to look up at the birds. The narrator visualizes the “table” again, now a blaze of ash, and writes the word “live” on the foreheads of three women with ash‑turned‑ink, concluding with the act of setting the table together.